Goodbye fellow Positano people

We had a great time in Positano.....we met some great people.  Rosita and Carmella from the Hotel next door, Our grocery family  and the ladies from the restaurant down the street.  We had a lot of laughs over the past three weeks.  It's funny to think how  quickly we all became friendly and how quickly they are out of our lives.  We have been amazed on how the Italian people were so quick to lend a helping hand throughout our trip.

Off to Rome for the last leg of our trip.

rocking into the wee hours of the morning

We found the only "club" in Positano.  Music on the rocks is a 3 story club actually built into the cliffs.  The first floor was actually in a cave.  It's a very cool place.  Denise and I had visited earlier to see the local drag queen.  We figured we would bring Chris down there and see what would happen.

I am not sure why the places do not open until 11 pm.   11.....cripes that's late.  Anyway never mind 11, the place doesn't start going until 12 or 1 am.  The first time we went, we went at11....we were the only ones there until after 12.....

We get there at mid nights and there is no one there....but there is a party going on on the 2nd floor....unfortunately for us it was a private party....we didn't know that until they threw us out!

We hung around till close to 2 am....we were still the only people there.  Denise embarrassed Chris by requesting a song....the bored DJ had no problem playing it....I a not sure why toy would be worried....there were really..../.nobody else there...we went home.

I guess Positano only "rocks" on the weekend.

Hello Chris....Goodbye Positano

In the past 2 days Chris he arrived and we have said a tearful goodbye to Positano.
Chris has a fall break at college and we decided to have him visit us here in Italy.  We decided he would have him stay for a day or two in Positano and than spend the rest of his week in Rome before we all flew home together.
Other than the normal hiking, stairs, beautiful sites and of course eating it was a pretty uneventful couple of days with Chris.

The one exception was the Music on the Rocks.

The men seem to like Denise.....and she likes that

Denise is enjoying the attention she gets here in Positano.  If it’s not her new lady friends fawning over her beauty….it’s the men.  You remember Enzo and Tony….well it continued the next day at NEXT2 restaurant.  Our waiter came over and immediately asked Denise if she was a movie star. Throughout the dinner you could see him and his buddies crowing together and motioning to her.  Of course we told him shh shhh….  And did the old….you don’t know who she is?

Next at the managot house….the 80+ year old owner took a shine for Denise and when the moon appeared over the mountain tops just in time for dinner, he told her he ordered it just for her.  I thought, pretty slick but probably says that to everyone….oh no he does not…..he stopped at the next table and said  “ see the moon, I ordered it for them and he points to Denise”  The other couple did not think that was very funny….

WHAT?????? That's the best part

Ok , I’m not sure who these people were….but I never have seen this.

We are taking a late lunch down at the beach…..This place was said to have the best pizza in town.  It was!    They also had excellant Gluten Free pizza for Denise.

Anyway...I of course am doing my people watching and see that the couple next to us also have ordered pizza.  They also ordered two pizzas.  Oh, one crazy thing with Italians and pizza….they do not cut it into slices for you.  If you ask, they look a little disturbed, but they do it.

Anyway, most people use a knife and fork…...that’s just crazy talk.  How can you enjoy pizza without curling and snarfing?

Ok, so all of a sudden the lady next to us cuts a circle in the middle of her pizza.  I don’t mean a small hole, I mean It she leaves about an inch of pizza and the crust.  I’m watching thinking….OK I Know some people don’t like crust but this is a little ridiculous.  But wait…..she is not eating the center….the best part of the pie….oh no, she is gonna eat only the crust.  She than puts the center piece on her husbands plate….what????? I want this deal.  Funny though...the husband didn’t eat it either.  He just ate his pie, the normal way.

Finally Found it

I grew up with a big extended Italian family.  Loud, funny and always eating.  My favorite of all time meals was my granmother’s managot…….OK...Manacotti for you who call macaroni ; pasta.

I have vivid memories of going to Nat Nat’s on Sunday.  Joining all my cousins, Aunts and Uncles and others that we always thought were relatives for the Sunday feast.  I can still remember coming into her house, which was made up of mostly a kitchen and smelling the sweet smell of managot.   (OK, I do not need any of my Italian counterparts to point out that managot is not spelled that way….just say it out loud...and that’s how I spell it….so forgetaboutit)

OK anyway, I have been ordering this dish most of my entire adult life trying to match Nat Nats dish.  It was always a let down.  But not tonight!  This restaurant was in the “failiy” for 36 years and their version of Nat Nat was still cooking all the dishes.

The managot was unbelievable.  The shells were perfectly cooked ….but what makes it is the cheese.  Most places do not cook it long enough and the cheese is bad...not gritty...but not as smooth as it should be.  The dish I ate last night was like drinking liquid gold.  

It was great!  Of course we had to go meet the Nat Nat of Positano.  No English, but her daughter let her know and we left her with a big smile on her face.

Oh yea….the pear and ricotta cake...it was outstanding….but I would of traded it for another managot.

Ciao

Another quiet day in Positano....until!

It was another cloudy day in Positano.  The boats were not running and of course the buses are out of the question.  So we decided to actually take the hike we spoke about yesterday,  We hiked up to Montepertuso.  It was  pretty uneventful.  We climb about 4 miles and than down 2 back to Positano.  Of course....that was a little too much exercise for the two of us .....so we came back and napped as the sun started to peak out in the afternoon.

So, just by coincidence , Denise looks up as we are hiking and sees a sign for a restaurant that was recommend to us earlier in the trip.  You have to understand...the names all look the same and they all have the words trattoria and pizza in their names...We were told that this place had the best Ricotta and pear pie.  They were not open yet but took a reservation for that evening.

Than things changed!

Quiet Day

We were planning to go to Salerno by boat this morning.  Unfortunately, the weather continues to be a little crazy.  The sea was pretty rough and all ferries were closed.  Denise did mention we could take a bus.....ahhhhhh....NO.

So we decided to stay put today.  We thought we would take another hike around Positano.  Put another 5-6 miles on the fit bit.  We had done that yesterday due to the weather.  But today....its beautiful out....just a rough sea.

We didn't really not agree to take that hike today....it just kinda happened that we just laid out all day on the deck.......yeah, nice lazy day!

Maybe we will not get gelato today due to our lack of any movement of our bodies.......sure....you keep thinking that.

Denise , Enzo and the overly helpful deck hand.......

Enzo was the captain of the Diesel Queen.  He was probably late 50's to mid 60's.  He like Denise....so much that at the end of the trip he had to give her a big hug and the kiss - kiss thing Europeans do....

No big deal....no big threat I'm thinking.......But I had stepped off the boat as Denise started her little Italian affair.  So this deck hand ....40 year old weathered Italian guy.....sees Denise giving out the free feels and decides he better ask for some of his own.....

As he helps her off the the Diesel Queen " So you are in Positano by yourself?"   He says this with the smile of a fox........Ease up Tony.....It all happened in a second or two and by the time he finished his question Denise had grabbed my hand and it became apparent Tony would go home alone tonight.....

Island of Captri

Capri is an island off the coast of Sorrento.  Takes about 40 minutes by boat to get there from Positano.

So we start by buying tickets for a semi private boat tour.  30-40 foot boat, 12 people and Captain Enzo.  As we get on the captain says you can ride on the front of the boat or in the big bench seat in the back.  Knowing that in the past week Denise and I have had numerous bouts of nausea with the bus issues, I decide to take the back of the boat.......wrong decision.  All would of been fine except the boat we were on....was a  mid engine vessel.   This lead to an overwhelming flow of nasty smelling diesel throughout the trip.  I sat in the corner and stuck my head around the cabin ....like a dog with it's head out the window.  I fared OK....but the women in the back with us fell into the zone and basically fell out of the boat when we docked.

Anyway......Capri is probably the least interesting looking village on the coast, except that it on this island which is truly gorgeous.  But the town........it was all white....and not Greece all white type of town.....just a washed out uninteresting village.

They do have a 1 seat chairlift that brings you to the top of the island......should of done this first.  There is a restaurant/bar at the top, an outside garden and a view that looks over the entire Amalfi coast.  If I knew this was up there, I would of spent the day there.

On the way back I made sure we sat on the front of the boat.....fantastic.  

Italy the same????

Who hasn’t romanticized about going to Italy?

I am on my third week here and thought I would give you an overview of how my fantasy has come back to earth.  Italy along with everywhere else on this planet is just another country that has an array of people with economic differences.

I guess I was naive.

As I flew into Rome and trained up to Cinque Terre I thought….wow this is a poor country….and what’s with all the graffiti.  It was unbelievably bad.  I thought If I was back in the US….I would stay out of this area.  Than I went flew into Catania in Sicily; It looked like a combat zone.  It was basically a broken down city.  Again, back in the states you would not take time to visit this area.

On the other hand, The places we selected to stay and visit have been beautiful and interesting.  

So what the hell am I talking about ?…..

I am not sure….it’s just the reality that wherever you go ….it’s the same.  Sure Italy is different than St Louis, but in respect to everyday life and economics, we share more than we are different.

Rain, Rain won't go away

It’s been pretty crappy weather since we got to Positano.  We have had only a few full good days of sunshine.  It’s raining again this morning.  Nothing you can do about it….still is a little disappointing.

Thus the plethora of blog posts today!

Ravello

We got a late start as I mentioned in the bus post.  We didn’t get to Ravello until 1:30 or so.  This is one of the interior towns on the Almafi coast.  It’s a much smaller town.  It did have a few really cool things to see:

We went to Villa Rufolo…..a 13th century villa built by some rich guy…..Mr. Rufolo.  In its day it had over 350 rooms on the estate.  It was a really cool “castle”.  We also went to the cathedral.  The “Duomo”, which every town has, was a beautiful church.  Its built on a slope….and instead of leveling things out, this church slants from the front doors to the alter slightly.  

This is a town in which you can visit in about 3 hours.  It’s very small….but that didn’t stop us from dropping way to much money on some very cool dishware.  We have been eyeing this stuff throughout Italy.  Most places are retailers in the towns we were visiting.  The place we bought from was the actual studio.  We hung out with Paco and his wife, got the back story and than got sucked into buying some of their wares. Great stuff....I am sure will have a picture on facebook for you.

Nice little town, was worth the trip….but get a private bus or car to bring you there….don’t take the public bus!

Don't take the public bus

So we decide to take the public bus again…….oh was that a mistake.  Denise as you know had the 2nd round of illness.  She was still a little under the weather but wanted to do something in the afternoon.  

So we decided to go to Ravello.  We hump it down to the bus station and find out that we will need to take the bus to Amalfi and switch over to another bus to Ravello.  

OK, the bus is $2.70 one way.  We wait at the bus stop…...which has space for about 10 people….it's on the side of the road...what they call a road.  By the time the bus comes….an hour late...there are 50 people wanting to get on.  We are about ½ way back and barley fit on this bus.

We have to stand and hold on while he ride the bus from hell.  Remember these things are starting and stopping every few seconds to make these incredible switch backs every 100 yards.  Thank God this time the bus driver did not have the heat on.  Now...... just put this image in your mind ….standing...holding on…..holding on the bar above your head……..lots of people and I mean packed like sardines….no windows open…..and tons of non-deoderized pits all over the place.  

Every few minutes we would sway and the pungent smell of BO would smack you in the nostrils…

The result...we unloaded off the 45-50 minute ride and had to sit on the side of the road and breathe….and than Denise puked.  Yup, for the past 20 minutes she was in that “please don’t let me puke” zone.  That far away stare you get when you know you cannot get off the ride and are just praying for it to end.

We now take the private bus...open aired...no standing allowed.   Cost us $20 for the same $ 5.40 trip but ...there is no puking.

Do these people eat anything other than Italian food

I have not seen one.....Mexican, Chinese, Japanese, German, American....keep listing them...type of restaurants any of the towns We have visited in Italy.  Every restaurant is Italian.  You really take for granted the great American melting pot.


coincidences alert.......so I am at a bar/gealto shop blogging on account of my crazy chromebook...another story....anyway a guy wanders up to my table, I'm up on their deck overlooking the sea....he looks at me and kinda motions to the open chair next to me at my table.  I figure, this guy, does not speak english and wants to grab a chair to drink his tiny cup of coffee.  So I motion to the chair, he does the old shake your head like you don't want the chair but at the same time you want the chair.  So he decides to hang out with me....he speaks....is that english...yup.....and yup....he graduated from Trumbull High School.

We have run into a few of these odd coincidences while we have been here.  We met my sister-in-laws' brother's best friend from Darien.  

Anyway....I am not sure what these people eat other than Italian food.
The day I get home I will be getting my Mexican fix.

Gelato

You would think that gelato was heroin.....

It really didn't hit me until we visited Amalfi.  Yesterday we took  ferry to the town of Amalfi....more on that later.

So of course you have to a gelato....basically it's ice cream.  Everyone eats this stuff....all day.  It does not matter what time it is....there are people selling the stuff and people scoffing it down.

The crazy part is how many shops there are.  We we sitting at a gelato shop on the main drag in Amalfi.  A cobblestone pedestrian lane that starts at the ocean and meanders it's way up the mountain.  Interestingly enough, I was not having a gelato...I was drinking a beer....Denise was having one.  (I think that was the first one I missed)  anyway....honestly within 50-75 feet there were 6-7 places to get gelato; 5 of which were gelato shops with the other being delis/bakery/gelato shops.  I am not sure how they all stay in business....

Off to Sorrento for the day.

Thursday was a little rainy and we were still getting over our 4 hour hike with the Gods the day before; so we had a late start.  We decided  take the afternoon  go to Sorrento. It’s about an hour drive from here.  Due to the the bad weather all ferries were closed. We decided to take a bus. We waited around for over an hour for the bus…..it was late.  Before it came, a young Australian couple had hailed down a taxi and we decided to split the ride.  It took us ½ the time.  Sorrento is another coastal town.  Much bigger than the towns we have been visiting.  Much more like Syracusa in nature in terms that people lived and worked in the city versus just a tourist place.

We had a nice day, nothing really noteworthy.  We were able to get Gluten Free pizza for Denise….she said it was great.

Unfortunately we did not take cab home.  

We find the bus and I get the window seat...of course on the passenger side of the bus on account  that, that is where the view will be.  The bus is standing room only and it’s pretty warm outside.  Once I sit down I notice the bus has the heat on….full blast and the vent is right under my feet.  What the heck….. All someone needs is to light up….I have a flashback to my childhood when I would be crunched into the back seat….in the winter….heat blasting….and my dad smoking…..I still get sick thinking about it.  OK there was no smoke but there was plenty of sweaty tourists.    Then the bus starts it’s crazy climb into the Amalfi coast to bring us home.  Switch back after switch back….break….. speed up….. just to jamb the the breaks on again.  I could swear this guy is trying to make me sick.    Denise is of course is commenting “look how steep the drop off is”…”Isn’t beautiful”....No Denise ….It’s not….right now I am focusing on not throwing up and if I do where would I do it…..In the end, Denise also gets car sick….this never happens; you could only imagine how green I was.

Flies

OK, what the hell is going on with the flies here in Positano.  It's not like it's overwhelming, but cripes sake get some fly traps.  No matter where you are....no matter how nice the hotel or restaurant....there is always a few flies that find us.  It was most annoying when I was soaking up some sun.  I Figured this was a normal problem when we found 2 flyswatters...one of those electric tennis racket ones (no batteries...thanks for making me walk 150 stairs to get some batteries)  and a normal BIG one.

They are not biting flies....just a small annoyance.

Denise trying to be Italian

We are at the hotel having breakfast....I'm blogging and Denise is eating......wow what a surprise...(too far?)

So she is trying to be Miss Italy with the little bit of prosciutto, some salami, a prune and a fresh date on her plate.  She comments, "your mom would love this"....on account of the crazy looking thing on her plate called a fig.

She gives the fig a nice size sample bite and her face becomes one of disgust.....she mumbles, I like my figs dried with sugar and caramelized....she takes the rest of the fig and throws it in our little waste receptacle on the table "This ones gonna take a dive"  So much for going native.

BTW...One thing Italians do is put a trash bucket on your table.  Take it from a tea drinker....it's a great little service.

Path of the Gods

If you are following along with Denise's photos on Facebook , today you will see her post pictures of our hike yesterday.  Yes....we are still hiking.  I have been sick so we did the Pete side of the vacation for the past 2 days....One day it was rainy so we just hung around and the next it was sunny so we laid out listened to music and soaked up the sun.  That was my kind of day.  Still a little under the weather, I was starting to feel bad for "ant's in her pants" Denise.  She wanted to hike the little trail of the Path Of Gods.

OK, so we go.....1:10 we start the climb.....at 5:30 we are back in town.  With close to 10 miles and 5,000 stairs.....this was no small hike.  The pictures do no justice to the beauty and.....danger.  We had to be up about 2,000 feet, hiking along 2 foot wide paths that on one side is a mountain and the other a cliff.  There were times on the climb up we were on all 4's climbing up.

Throughout the day we must of run across 40 people on the trail.  It's been fun stopping and gritching with others on how hard this hike was.

OH and for you new readers....gritching....you may be asking what the word means?....
While we were in Prague....when tensions were high ....driving around trying to find our hotel....I was doing my normal bitching and griping.  Denise termed my new level of craziness as Gritching.

Lights Out

Since being in Positano, we have had some huge thunder storms.  Last night....Lights out.  We are without our power.  So fortunately we, or should I say Denise, has made friends with the hotel down the stairs.  They allowed us to buy breakfast there.  So buckle up, I am going to get some blogging done covering the last few days.

Cats

I am not sure....but I think Italians have a love affair with cats.  They are everywhere.....and at the same time it does not look like anyone owns them.  In the streets, in hotel lobbies and in restaurants.  I thought it strange the first time I had a cat brush up against me in a restaurant.....OK, but when I was  the only one at breakfast and there was 7....really?  I also know why the cats like the Italians....they feed them.  In the 7 cat restaurant, the cats lost interest in me immediately when the server came out and feed them prosciutto.

Ciao

Grocery Stores!

So we are going to be here for 18 days…..we are not going to eat out every meal.  Our villa has a full kitchen.  We figured we have many meals on our deck overlooking the sea.

So we found this little grocer...I would say its more like a really small corner store.  Of course they have a deli.  We figured we would get some essentials and than go do a grocery run later in the day.  As we grabbed our few items and paid our 75 Eoros…..80-83 bucks...the guy happliy says...see you tomorrow.  OK grocery man see you tomorrow….not at these prices...but OK

So I get on the internet to find out where the real supermarkets are…..I find some and get the names and addressess.  Does not seem bad….10-15 minute walk away.   Later that day when we were going down to the center we saw and open door and struck up a conversation with Rosalita.  She was a front desk clerk at a hotel on the way down the stairs.  While explaining all you need to know about Positano, I asked her about the supermarkets.  She says “oh yes...there is a big one right up those steps” ….my steps?.....my grocery closet?...”yes...si….si”  I tell her that it’s tiny….”no no no it’s big”  A young women behind her….who must of at one time actually seen a large store, starts to laugh.  She works with Roslita and tells us that the closet up the stairs is what they consider a big supermarket.

So my happy littel grocer has now seen me …..everyday.

A little sick :(

A couple of days ago I started to get a scrathy throat.  By last night it was impossible to swallow, ...ears hurt and the throat hurt.  Nurse Denise tells me I have strep.  Understand after 4 kids she could be a nurse.

Oh cripes, now I have to figure this out.  How do I get a hold of my doctor and get a script.  My “never used” portal for BJC does not work and says to call their IT department to get the account re-opened.  At 2 bucks a minute, I am too cheap to call and wait on hold while some :

“genius “ from IT figures it out.  Chris shares the same doctor, so a flurry of texts to Chris and he somehow has the medical assistants email.  I send two emails to her explaining my situation.  

She says she will pass it on.

In the meantime, Denise and I wander down to the pharmacy.  Not only do they have amoxicilllan in stock, you do not need those pesky doctors to write a script….nope just give me $3.50 and be on your way.  Honestly, this was a real pharmacy.  So hopefully by tomorrow I will be better.

Poaitano....home at last.

Well after 6 different flights, at least 20 different trains, taxis and veniculars…..we have finally arrived to our home away from home in Positano.  Positano is the first town on the way through the Amalfi Coast.  We will be here for the next 17 days.  

Our place is great with plenty of room.  Shelby and her girlfriend were here when we arrived.  They stayed a night and than back to Rome to get back to studying…...right, if you can believe that.

Our driver from Naples brought us to the top of the stair case to our villa’s street…..street is not really aplicable here because you can not drive on it.  It’s more like an alley.  Julie, a brit, was there to show us our villa and get us situated.  This was not a great experince leading off to Julie just watching us as we humped all the luggage down the stairs.  Finally she took from Denise her hand bag and let denise drag down the suit case with a backpack on.  Now not really an issue is it ?,,,,,,just a few stairs….but  no no no it was over 70….very tall, very steep stairs.  Thank God it was down and not up.

BTW stairs are a part of life in the Amalfi Coast.  We are really in a great spot with only 70 staits down to villa from a road and ONLY 250 stairs down to beach and center of town.  It my seem like a lot….and it is; however, it’s really nothing compared to many others who live here.

Julie was a dissapointment, she could of not spend less time showing us the villa.

Stairmaster practice would of helped.

Syracusa Cookies!

OK I guess I have to tell you about the cookies since a second a go while Denise and I were sitting on our deck having a cookie….yes 1 cookie each.  We are again saying how good rhese are….we fall silent and then she snorts out….I could eat those things like popcorn.

OK, so we went to a farmers market as we made our way to the start of yet another tour of old stuff.  Anyway, I spot this guy selling these cookies…..and since I am noshing my way through Italy...what the hell I think…..give me one of those.  I almost cried….It was crazy good.  

So we go back the next morning before we leave and buy a couple of pounds from my little Italian friend.  I say little only becaus of the fact that when I went around the counter to take a picture with him….he was standing on a box to look tall.

Off to Syracuse

Another costal town, Syracusa did not dissapoint.  Much bigger than Taormina and litlle dirtier.  We stayed in Ortegia; which is the “Old town” of Syracusa.   We have been exrememly lucky with the hotels we stayed in so far.  If Denise only knew the “throw the dart” methodlolgy I used to pick these places…….

Again we stayed right in the heart of Ortegia….not that it’s all that big.  It takes 15-20 minutes to walk from one side of town to the other.  Although after our first experience you would of thought the town was a huge.  

We find our hotel….and this is always like an easter egg hunt for us….Well wait, We found it after we had to drive down a pedestrian walkway to the hotel.  It was in the directions so we did it….anyone rembering our earlier trip, when in  Prague I thought it was odd there were no other cars on the road.  Well I guess it’s allowed in Italy; nobody even flinched as I squeezed my car down the little street filled with people and vendors…..an no other cars.  BTW at the top of the street it has a big sign….no cars.

Anyway , back to that experience.  We got to our hotel just in time to meet a tour guide that would take us through Noto.  That would of been great except Noto is 40 minutes away.  Denise had really not read the details…...yes Denise.  So we quickly find our way to Noto.  It was worth the trip.

Driving In Italy

Everything I have heard or read about driving in Italy gave you one tip about driving in Italy…..don’t.  I would agree except for in Sicily.  In the rest of Italy the train system does the trick for the most part.  

So we rent a car….first it was cheap.  $56 bucks for the week….ok, by the time we left it was $90 on account of the idiot girl at the counter.  I needed a GPS and had ordered a GPS, but these facts eluded her in her quest for a bad customer service experince.  

I found driving in Italy fine…..Denise thought the round abouts were a little crazy...I did not.  One of the reasons I felt at ease is the speed.  Outside of the highways, Italians drive slow….30-40 Kilometers...I’m not sure what that is...but it must be like 20-30 mphs.  The main reason?  Well you could start with the cars….Italy, although makes some of the best race cars in the world….has crappy little cars.  The Renault I rented was so underpowered that I almost had to push it.  The real reason are the roads….or should we say large sidewalks; add tons of people who could care less if you hit them….add in the vendors who are in the street and lastly people parking every where….you can’t go fast.

The really strange thing in the towns I drove was the lack of any type of signs.  No stop signs, no lights, no yield, no speed…..basically the italians know the rules of the road and mainly followed them.

Returned that little car without a dent or scratch.  I was glad to get back to public transportation.

Almost hung myself

So at dinner Denise says to me...."Pete did you notice the tour guides today kinda spoke directly to me?"......

"yes honey I did" as I try to ignore this line of questioning and eat my ravioli......".I think it's on account of ....you look a little bored...."

No kidding right?  15 churches in 5 hours....I almost stuck a pencil in my ear...

Anyone who knows me understands.....sitting in the piazza eating, drinking a beer  and people watching is much more interesting.

Interestingly enough, I actually took some pictures..(OK I took 2)..another things I despise doing....  on account of how cool this one church was.  I will post later on that one.

Ciao

MT Etna

While in Taormina we took an excursion to Mount Etna.  Mount Etna.  It is the tallest active volcano in Europe rising to 11,00 feet.  We drove there; it took us about an hour or so.

Strike 2 with mountains....first it was Switzerland....now Italy.  By the time we got to the top of MT Etna the clouds have come in.  It was so thick you could not see 15 feet in front of you.  Of course that does not stop Denise and I....nope we take the vernacular up a 1,000 feet and than take this really industrial looking 4 wheel moon bus up another 2 or 3 thousand until we get to about 9,000 feet.  We than hiked up the 1,000 feet with the guide......OK if you have done the math and have been paying attention.....we only got to 10,000 feet.  They were not taking anybody up to the peak....could be a safety issue, not being able to see and 10,000 degree lava...

Anyway, great information and it one thing made it worthwhile.

In 2002 Mt Etna had the largest eruption for the past 50 years.  The guide told us that it takes over 20 years for the lave to fully cool....sure sure......Than he scrapes the ground....I don't mean digs a hole....just scrapes 2-3 inches of the surface.  I pick up the dirt....which looked like moon rocks....and it was really warm.  This felt really good on account it was about 30 degrees there.  We walked on the edge of the craters caused by the eruptions.  Crazy it was only 10-15 feet wide and went straight down ...I am assuming because we could not see a thing.

It was a desolute place that looked like pictures of the moon.  Miles and miles of waste land.

Cool place....worth the trip!

Taormina Italy

Taormina is beautiful.  As beautiful as Assisi but a different beauty.  Looks like Italy at Epcot center.


We saw a little town at the top of a mountain.  It was above everything else for miles.  We decided to hike up to Castelmola.  A couple of miles straight up hill. It was probably the steepest climb we have had. It was worth the trek.  (This was the walk that Denise sat on the cactus pear.).

On the way we stopped and had a beer/soda at this old Italian couple's little bar that overlooked the hike we just completed.  Sat and enjoyed some politics with some Brits.  We have met a bunch of nice people throughout our travels.  Casteloma was just as nice as Taurmina.  Same sort of town.

 Great food, in fact Denise was so impressed with the eggplant dish, we went back the next day and had it again.  The hotel was excellent.  Great views of the Sea from breakfast.  Great service.  In fact when we left they made up a special breakfast for us before normal opening hours.

The leg muscles have now healed and the 10+ miles we do everyday are not as painful or as stiff.



We spent three nights in Taormina and than drove....yes I said drove to Syracuse.

1st impression of Sicily is not good

So we fly into Catania.  We rent a car....yes rent a car.  Most reviews said the easiest way around Sicily is to drive your self.  OK...So the car rental is 50 bucks for the week.  Good Start, except that they are incompetent and do not have a GPS as I rented.  No way I am leaving without a GPS....id you are a reader you will remember my journey to Prague without a GPS.  I don't have to touch the stove twice to remember it's hot.
So in the end $90 bucks....no matter.

As we are waiting for the car there is a huge sign that says
"NEVER LEAVE YOUR LUGGAGE IN YOUR CAR"
Whe we stop by the info offive before leavng ....the guy gives us directions to the center of Catania...and tells us.....BTW NEVER LEAVE YOUR LUGGAGE IN YOUR CAR.

We have a hatch back and try to cover up our luggage the best we can.

Didn't need to.....there was no way I was letting Denise out of the car in this dump.  Catania is a slum.  I'm driving a standard.....though winding street of 15-20 feet wide....cars parked every where.....through what I would say would make Bridgeport look like a garden.  We drove around for an hour...and finally looked at each other and said let's bail.

Took us 40 minutes to Taormina.....now your talking......What a gem.

Denise's Follies

I am sure we will have a few Pete and Denise stories....but most have been Denise stories so far.  This is unusual because most of stories that have to do with idiot issues.....come from me.  It's a little refreshing to see Denise take the stage.....

Denise has gotten a little friendly with the locals.....we are headed back to our hotel.....down a long shallow flight of stairs....too busy looking at the gardens and the people when she does a header down the stairs.  OK that was not funny....She is fine....but it's always funny looking back, especially if you know Denise...she comes up with that big smile and laughing at herself.

Funny part is that as she does a header down the stairs, she tucks and rolls as not to break an arm....she is wearing a dress and I think no underwear......no she had underwear.....but not any of those granny pants....Dress goes flying over her head, gives everyone a show.....funny thing.  by the time she hit the ground she had grabbed her dress and covered herself.....again she was fine, The sambuca helped.

Next while we were hiking up to Casteloma, straight up hill for an hour, She need to take a break.  So she sits down on the stairs only to sit right on a cactus pear.  You would think she would of felt this baseball sized pear....but no...didn't feel the squishing?  no  didn't feel the juice and pulp squish through to your butt?  Nope

So she gets up and all I see on her white dress back side is this bright red stain right on her butt.  First thought was a women accident....really I know its gross.  She waited to get to a bathroom to clean the pulp and red juice off her dress.  Said, I don't care what the other hikers think, If I just wipe it off it will stain.  So for the next hour she hiked up the hill with this stuff hanging on her backside.

Hiking....and more Hihiking

You may be asking what have we been doing all day and in the evenings.....
Hiking....and mostly up hill it seems.  From when we started in Cinque Terre to our first days in Sicily, we hike.

I'm not the biggest fan of hiking....but Denise is and actually it has been pretty great.  We walk/hike at least 10 miles a day it seems.  I think our biggest day was miles.    I will say, I may play basket ball 2 times a week and than run another 3 days a week....and my legs are still killing me.  I guess I should of worked out on a stair master ......because my thighs are burning!

Off To Sicily

Ciao-

Well we ended our quick Switzerland stay with a night in Zurich before the flight out.  Zurich is right on a river and the expectation is that it would be beautiful, but it was just OK to good.  There is not much color to the city.  It's actually nicer at night with the lights.  We took a walking tour and crusied around and of  course ate.
I am done with hash brown dinners and sausage for awhile.

Again we took a venicular, trolley, trains and a plane to get back to Rome where we than took a flight to Sicily.  We said our goodbyes to Shelby.  She told us that it would be hard to top Murren.  She and Denise really enjoyed the beauty of the Alps.  Not a hard goodbye.....she is coming to see us in Positano in a week with her friends.

Pretty uneventful for all this travel.  We have not missed a train, got on the wrong trolley or been delayed to long on a plane or car.  What has surprised us is how quickly and happy people are to help us with  directions to here or there.

Ont Sicily

More Murren

Today we went on the Via Ferratta course in Murren.  A blog cannot do it justice.  You will need to see Denise's pictures.
They do no even do the beauty the justice.

Generally  it's  a wire cable that goes all over the outside of a mountain.  You put on a harness and clip in and walk the course.  I should say Hike.  Great views and you are standing on a cliff 2,000 feet above the ground.  No issue if you let go and fall...that is if you are worried about dying, unless you do not follow the rules.

The basic rule and only instructions from our guide is :  You have two clips that hold you onto the cable.  NEVER EVER un-clip both at the same time.  That's it....now lets go walk the ledge .  BTW, if you do slip and fall into the 2,000 foot abyss, no worries, you have listened to the guide, so you will just fall 5-10 feet and swing into the jagged rocks.  Don't slip.  We made it it without injury.  It was GREAT.

If you want pictures....

If you are looking for pictures, Denise is posting them on Facebook.

Murren Switzerland

Shelby is studying in Rome this semester so for an extra bonus, we get to spend a weekend with her.  We decided to take her to Switzerland.  I thought it would be great.  The flights were so cheap...less than 300 bucks round trip for all of us.  That's when that dream ended.  Buckle up people, Switzerland is ....expensive.  No other way around this issue.  Cripes, no wonder kids don't spend a lot of time here.

Murren is this little town in the Alps.  Crazy beautiful.  The alps surround you.  There is snow on all the peaks.  GREAT food.  I love Swiss food....cheese, cheeses more cheese and a Swiss Favorite Rosri.   Its basically hash browns with stuff on them.  Last night it was ham, cheese (of course) tomatoes, bacon and Shelby had cream and veal.  Denise went with the Fried Cheese and pickles...yup, pickles.  She loved it.

These tows in the fall are like ski towns in the US in the summer.  They are Quiet...and I mena quiet.  Bed by 10!

More on Murren later.





 

Really More Bells

We left Assisi and are now in Murren Switzerland....more about that in another post...but today we hiked through the mountains.....cripes that seems to becoming a habit on this trip.....Anyway.  I thought I just traveled for 8 hours to get away from bells....

Murren is this little town in the Alps...Alps?  I'm guessing.... I guess these are the alps...cripes I m such an American.  Anyway...this town is full of cows....and yes you guessed it every single one of them have a bell on them and they ring constantly as these guys eat and move around.  It's like 7 am in Assisi all day long.

They must think its a their thing.....the souvenir shop sold little cow bells.

Funny...

Bells Bells Bells

I get it…..Assisi is a catholic town, and I mean a Catholic town.  Every other store is like the Family Christian stores back home.  No issue for us...we’re big Catholics so we are eating this up….but enough with the bells.

So we stayed in the middle of the city.  Slept with the windows wide open, beautiful 60 degree nights.  However, if it is your plan to sleep past 7 a.m. forgetaboutit  (That’s not a typo)

There must be 4-5 churches right around our hotel.  They all feel a duty to ring the bells at 7 am 7 rings for each hour.  The issue is, none of them know when exactly 7 a.m. is…….Yes they all ring within the first 5 minutes ….so you get to hear 30-40 bell rings.  

Nice for  night or two...but I would be killing Quasimodo if I lived there.

Off To Assisi

Well we left Cinque Terre and took the 4 hour train to Assisi.  We arrived at around midnight.  Assisi is up on a hill and it was a beautiful ride up the mountain through the lights.

I had not mentioned before, but Cinque Terre in my mind looked like a run down beach town  I guess most people would call it quaint….but if you had that type of housing in the US some of it would be condemned.  But’s irts a beach town and the surroundings are spectacular.  On the other hand Assisi is CRAZY cool.  It is a medieval town.  There is no concrete, no black top and no grass….not a blade.  The city is cobblestone to stone wall to stone roofs.  Interweaving streets that are at best 15 feet wide.  It was like being in a fairy tale.  Unbelievable city.

So Denise is making the plans for the trip and our first activity is to hike up to The Hermitage.  This is where St Francis ran to when he fled his family.  When we go down to the front desk to get some directions...of course we have no maps….and he says, with a eyebrow raised, “you are going to walk there”?  That should of been the first clue.  But no….what does he know...he only grew up here.  So we start out 1 mile down through the town….fantastic.  Than we get to the start of the “driveway” and start walking up….and up and up….we must of been about 1.5 miles in when we start to question our judgment.  There is NO One else hiking….no one….this as a bad idea.  Denise starts hitch hiking and thank St Frances some new friends bring us to the top.   By the way only 1 or  2 cars has passed us in the last 1/ hour.  It took another 10 minutes of driving to get to the top…  At the top we found a taxi stand and paid dearly for a ride down when we were done.  

All in All a great place to visit.

Cinque Terra

Ciao-

We are just leaving Cinque Terra. A northern Italy chain of 5 very small beach towns.  We stayed in Monotrosa.  It is still high season for vacationers here so it was rather busy.  We stayed at the Baia hotel which is right on the beach.  When I reserved the room, it was one of the only rooms in town left.  I now know why.  It was barely big enough to hold the bed and the window looked into a wall.  Denise and I both were fine with it.,  I knew ahead of time that we were getting a garden view…..there was no garden below.  Just the kitchen’s back door.

Crazy thing….I go into this tiny bathroom to take a shower.  The faucets are on the floor outside the shower.  So of course I get in and than have Denise turn the knobs.  It takes about 10 minutes before the water becomes cool enough not to leave 3rd degree burns.  I leave it running so Denise can shower.  The next day I get in...forget the issue and now I’m soaking wet and straddling the doorway down on my knees with my hand reaching back into the boiling water.  Of course I am turning with my left hand and of course I am not sure which way makes it hotter or colder due to the left hand issue.  Before flooding the bathroom I finally figure out…...cripes sake...those are the shut off valves and not the shower valves.  What an idiot.

Some of the great things:  Local beer was very good, the local limoncello was even better.  Had great Pizza, both regular and Gluten free.  Great hiking with unbelievable views.  The credit card and bank cards are working. Unbelievable as it seems….all is going without a hitch so far.

More Tomorrow….Ciao

Travel Day

Well I’m a little rusty and started to blog only to read back a boring diatribe of details that most people could care less about.  Know your reader...yes I know most people here are interested in Pete and Denise stories.  The stories that would screw up most people’s vacation….but of course not ours.  Crazy as it may seem ...there has been few instances ...but of course there were a few.

Yes, unbelievably we were able to upgrade to business class at the airport, we were on a wait list.  Well let’s start with me being so excited with the service that I woke Denise us twice to tell her how excited I was.  OK that is not the best thing to do to Denise.  The women who never sleeps should not be woken up to let her know her hot minted scented towel might go cold……

I was like a 10 year old.  I took advantage of everything they had...  the totally reclining seat, the drinks, the warm nuts, the hot towel...should I go on?  Yes I should it was that good.  The food and the breakfast...oh yeah the water bottle left for me while I slept by my personal customer care person Alex.  I truly believe If I asked for a massage I would of gotten it.

All seems to be going great until Denise forgets her binder with all her details of our trip’s activities on the plane.  I as the good husband sit and wait with the luggage while the athlete of the family sprints from the train station back to the airport to save the day.  OK to save her day.  I would of griped about her losing it all vacation….no such luck.

It took us 24 hours from our driveway to our hotel in Cinque Terre Italy. A car ride, two plane rides, three train rides and we are here.  Very cool place.  But of course I will point out every crazy issue in my next posting.  Two beers and a limoncello shot to start the night off.  

CIAO

The beginning of a new stage of life.....Empty Nesting!

Ciao

Good Morning-
Yes, I am back to blogging.....at least for the next 5 weeks or so.  Things have changed.

The title and URL of the blog has been changed along with our lives.

A few weeks ago Denise and I became empty nesters after 24 years.  It has overall been a fantastic experience.  It of course had it's ups and downs, but in the end we are blessed to have raised four fantastic kids who are making their way in the world.  So what to do......

Take a trip!   Today we leave for Italy.  We will be there until Oct 22nd! Crazy.....sounds like a long time, but in reality....just like those 24 years ....it will be gone in an instant.  Let me first answer one of the questions I always get....How can you leave for this long?  what about that cable place?  Yes SMC, my other child.....well, again I am blessed to have a fantastic crew of employees along with my business partner  John. .......OK let's start with  that.....About a year ago I started calling John my business partner....for the decade before I just called him my partner.  My kids thought it was inappropriate and that it made John and I look like we were "partners"  cripes sake....really?  So I changed....I noticed John did the same....

OK so I am up at 4 am after going to bed at midnight.  Anyone that knows me knows that this is crazy behavior for Mr. Sleep 7-8 hours every night.  I am trying to ready my body to go to sleep at 5 pm tonight when we take off.  The flight is like 7-8 hours...yup I really don't know....anyone who has followed me on my travels knows that I am not the biggest planner and do not over do knowing all the facts.  All I know is that Italy is 7 hours ahead..... I think, We leave at 4:45 pm and we land 9 am in the morning on Sunday.  It does not take a math whiz to figure out that I will need to sleep the entire flight. The hard part for me is not to fall asleep on the 1 hour flight to Chicago.

So again, Welcome....or welcome back.  I write this blog mostly for my family, who for some reason wants to read this dribble.  So, buckle up and enjoy the ride.  I am sure there will be plenty of Pete and Denise stories to keep you entertained.


Pete